i-D Magazine: A Legacy of Street Fashion and Visual Culture
Since its inception, i-D has stood as a pivotal force in the intersection of fashion, youth culture, and documentary photography. What began as a humble, hand-stapled fanzine has evolved into a global brand known for championing individual style and the raw energy of the streets.
The Origins of i-D
Launched in 1980 by Terry Jones, i-D was a pioneer in covering street fashion. The first issue was a modest production, priced at 50p with only 50 copies sold. Despite these small beginnings, the publication quickly became a cultural touchstone for those interested in authentic, non-commercial style.
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The Straight-Up: A Revolutionary Photographic Style
Central to the identity of i-D is The Straight-Up, a documentary style of photography pioneered by Terry Jones in 1977. Derived from a West Country expression meaning "tell it like it is," a Straight-Up is a head-to-toe portrait of a street-cast individual with distinct personal style, typically paired with a brief Q&A about their life and preferences.
The style was inspired by the social documentary portraits of August Sander and Irving Penn's "Small Trade" series. In 1977, Jones commissioned photographer Steve Johnston to capture London punks against a plain white wall on Kings Road. While intended for British Vogue, the images were deemed too revolutionary for the publication. Instead, they appeared in the book Not Another Punk Book (Aurum Press) and eventually formed the foundation of i-D in 1980.
The Straight-Up remained a staple as i-D transitioned from a fanzine to a professional magazine, leading to a dedicated "Straight-Up Issue" (No. 234) in August 2003. The style continues to be featured in the publication today.
Global Expansion and Ownership Shifts
Over the decades, i-D expanded its reach through various international editions and digital platforms. In 2015, i-D France launched as a website. In 2016, i-D Japan debuted as a bi-annual print magazine featuring Kiko Mizuhara on its first cover; while print ceased in 2019, it remains active digitally. That same year, a Chinese edition launched via Weibo and WeChat. Most recently, i-D Korea launched as a digital-only publication in July 2021 under editor Songin Han.
The magazine's ownership has seen significant changes. In 2012, Terry Jones sold the magazine to Vice Media, though he and his wife, Tricia Jones, remained partners and partial shareholders. On November 14, 2023, Bedford Media—financed by Karlie Kloss and Joshua Kushner—acquired the magazine from Vice Media. Following the acquisition, publication was temporarily paused.
The Modern Era and Relaunch
The transition to Bedford Media brought leadership changes, with Karlie Kloss appointed as CEO. Alastair McKimm, previously the Editor-in-Chief, served as Chief Creative Officer and Global Editor-in-Chief before resigning in February 2024. In September 2024, i-D's digital presence was relaunched with a new website and a digital cover featuring Charli XCX and Troye Sivan.
Looking forward, Thom Bettridge has been announced as the new Editor-in-Chief. The magazine is scheduled to resume print publication in March 2025 as a bi-annual title.
Key Facts
- Founded: 1980 by Terry Jones.
- Signature Style: "The Straight-Up" head-to-toe street photography.
- Current Owner: Bedford Media (acquired November 2023).
- Current Editor-in-Chief: Thom Bettridge.
- Print Status: Returning as a bi-annual publication in March 2025.
- Digital Reach: Currently operates digitally in the UK, Japan, and South Korea.
Editorial History Summary
| Editor | Start Year | End Year |
|---|---|---|
| Terry Jones | 1980 | 2012 |
| Dylan Jones / Caryn Franklin | 1986 | 1988 |
| Alix Sharkey | 1988 | 1989 |
| John Godfrey | 1988 | 1990 |
| Matthew Collin | 1991 | 1994 |
| Avril Mair | 1994 | 2004 |
| Glenn Waldron | 2004 | 2006 |
| Ben Reardon | 2006 | 2010 |
| Holly Shackleton | 2010 | 2019 |
| Alastair McKimm | 2019 | 2024 |
| Thom Bettridge | 2024 | Present |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a "Straight-Up" in i-D magazine?
A Straight-Up is a documentary-style, head-to-toe portrait of a person cast from the street based on their personal style, usually accompanied by a short interview about their life and preferences.
Who currently owns i-D magazine?
i-D is owned by Bedford Media, a company financed by Karlie Kloss and Joshua Kushner, which acquired the publication from Vice Media in November 2023.
When will the print version of i-D return?
The magazine is set to begin publishing again in March 2025 as a bi-annual publication.
Which international editions of i-D are currently active?
i-D currently maintains a digital presence in the United Kingdom, Japan, and South Korea.
Who is the current Editor-in-Chief of i-D?
Thom Bettridge was announced as the new Editor-in-Chief following the digital relaunch in 2024.