Blue Stilton: Production, PDO Status, and Regional Heritage
Blue Stilton is one of the world's most iconic cheeses, renowned for its rich flavor and distinctive blue veining. Achieving this unique character requires a precise manufacturing process and a strict adherence to regional standards that have been codified into law to protect the integrity of the brand.
The Art of Making Blue Stilton
The characteristic blue veins of Stilton are not accidental; they are the result of a deliberate process where the cheese crust is pierced with stainless steel needles. This allows air to enter the core of the cheese, facilitating the growth of the mold that creates the veins. From the initial production to the final ripening, the entire process takes between nine and twelve weeks.
Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)
To legally use the name "Stilton," a cheese must meet rigorous criteria. It must be produced using pasteurised local milk and manufactured within one of three specific English counties: Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Nottinghamshire.
In 1996, manufacturers in these regions were granted Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status under European Law. A PDO is a certification that ensures a product is produced, processed, and prepared in a specific geographical area using recognized know-how. Despite Brexit, this protection remains in effect under EU law for the European Union and Northern Ireland, and under UK law for England, Scotland, and Wales.
The Geography of Production
The heartland of Stilton production is widely considered to be the Vale of Belvoir, an area straddling the borders of Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire, and Lincolnshire. This region hosts several licensed dairies in the town of Melton Mowbray and the villages of Colston Bassett, Cropwell Bishop, Long Clawson, and Saxelbye.
Licensed Dairies and Audits
As of September 2016, only six dairies were licensed to produce Stilton: three in Leicestershire, two in Nottinghamshire, and one in Derbyshire. To maintain their license, these dairies undergo regular audits by independent inspection agencies accredited to the European Standard EN 45011.
Regional Shifts and Local History
The landscape of production has shifted over time. In Leicestershire, a dairy at Quenby Hall near Hungarton restarted production in 2005 in a facility dating back to the 18th century, though the business closed in 2011. In Derbyshire, production began in 1900 at Hartington. While a Dairy Crest-owned facility there closed in 2009, the Hartington Creamery at Pikehall was licensed in 2014. This business is currently the smallest of the six licensed companies.
By March 2021, Hartington Stilton was exporting to the US and Canada. However, exports to the EU were halted following Brexit due to the high cost of required veterinary surgeon certificates.
The Paradox of Stilton Village
Interestingly, Stilton cheese cannot be produced in the village of Stilton. Although the cheese takes its name from the location, the village is situated in Cambridgeshire (historically Huntingdonshire), which is not one of the three permitted counties. A 2013 application by The Original Cheese Company to amend the PDO to include the village was rejected by Defra.
Other historical attempts to expand production occurred in Staffordshire, where the Nuttall family opened a factory in Uttoxeter in 1892. This venture was short-lived, and the site eventually transitioned into a general dairy.
Key Facts
- Production Time: 9 to 12 weeks for manufacturing and ripening.
- Permitted Regions: Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Nottinghamshire.
- Legal Protection: PDO status granted in 1996.
- Core Technique: Stainless steel needles are used to introduce air for blue vein formation.
- Licensing: Only six dairies were licensed as of September 2016.
| Requirement | Specification |
|---|---|
| Permitted Counties | Derbyshire, Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire |
| Milk Type | Pasteurised local milk |
| Certification | Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) |
| Audit Standard | European Standard EN 45011 |
Frequently Asked Questions
Why can't Stilton cheese be made in Stilton village?
Stilton village is located in Cambridgeshire and Huntingdonshire, which are not among the three counties (Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Nottinghamshire) legally permitted under the PDO status.
How are the blue veins created in the cheese?
The veins are created by piercing the cheese crust with stainless steel needles, which allows air to enter the core and trigger the growth of the blue mold.
What is the PDO status and why does it matter?
The Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) is a legal protection that ensures only cheese made in specific regions using traditional methods can be sold as "Stilton," preventing imitation and preserving regional heritage.
How long does it take to make Blue Stilton?
The entire process, including both manufacturing and ripening, takes between nine and twelve weeks.
Which area is considered the heartland of Stilton production?
The Vale of Belvoir, which spans the borders of Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire, and Lincolnshire, is regarded as the heartland, particularly around Melton Mowbray.